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48 Hours In Dublin

10 Sep

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It is indeed almost unthinkable, though to the jet set crowd, it wouldn’t be a notion that would evoke the batting of an eye. Yes, hopping across the Atlantic for a whirlwind 48 hrs, then wheel around and head back. Sounds fairly nuts. But it’s what I’ve just accomplished as I journey back to the States over the waters I crossed just a few mornings ago.

Touching down at Dublin Airport (DUB) at around 6:30AM local time on the direct redeye  out of JFK, AA 209, I breeze through customs; I suppose one of the mercies of arriving at such an early hour. Next, my task is to chart my way into town. This is relatively simple and straightforward. You have three main options though I’d recommend skipping the taxi line as that can be somewhat of a pricy affair. Opt instead for the aircoach coach service into town (€7 one way) or the seemingly ubiquitous AirLink bus which boasts a frequency of every 10 mins and deposits you right in the center (€6 one way, €10 return).

Temple Bar Hotel right at the core of the very lively Temple Bar area is my choice for accommodation. Note that Temple Bar can be very manic with all the frenzy surrounding the myriad pubs & clubs in this part of town being the nightlife epicenter. Still, one does not get more central than this and since I’m here for a brief stint, I’m up for rolling with it. Check in is relatively smooth and efficient though I’m having to stow my luggage for another hour or so before a room becomes available and the kind staff check me in early.

After a quick nap and waiting out the rain a little (which had been incessant through the morning and early afternoon hours), I venture out. First stop: Trinity College which is a mere stone’s throw away. Established in the late 16th century under the Tudor crown, it is the oldest university in Ireland and indeed one of the oldest in Western Europe. One of its notable and perhaps most broadly recognized alumni is Oscar Wilde. Explore the campus on your own or join one of the scheduled guided tours which are available through the day. I spend a considerable amount of time at Trinity and nightfall is approaching. I head back to my hotel to freshen up before venturing out for the evening.

Next stop: Dinner. Location: Dylan McGrath’s Fade St Social Gastro Pub. As a solo diner, I’m able to grab a spot at the bar which rims the open kitchen. I’d recommend, however, securing a reservation beforehand especially for parties of 2 or more. The ambiance here is decidedly lively and the fare scrumptious. McGrath largely sticks to an Irish base in his plates but certainly builds from there, offering an inspired variety of tapas-style small plates from locally sourced ingredients. The restaurant also boasts an extensive cocktail list and wine menu.

The evening’s beginning to heat up as I navigate may way to The George on George’s street, a short walk away. The George prides itself on being one of Dublin’s longest running establishments for Gay nightlife though to be fair, I witness more of a mixed set of patrons at the venue which tends to be par for the course anyway these days. The music thumps with pop tunes as we all passionately gyrate and sing along (or at least attempt to). This evening, Saturday night, is also supposed to have us witness Dublin’s finest take to the stage and karaoke the night away. Alas, or maybe perhaps blessedly so, the equipment is broken. The drag personas on stage alternatively kickoff an impromptu dance-off selecting random members from the audience to join them onstage; it’s a ton of fun. I cap off the evening at another spot across the river, Panti Bar. It’s just as lively with an equally enthusiastic crowd and good tunes.

Day 2: I’m having a little bit of a late start having staggered into my hotel room in the wee hours. Still, I’ve got my points of interest mapped out for the day and thus venture out just as the revelers are starting to spill out onto the streets of Temple Bar, pints in hand (and it’s only lunch time). I pick may way to my next stop, Dublin Castle, the seat of British rule for hundreds of years. It is possible to explore on your own but I opt to join a guided tour (€8) which was well worth it. Don’t miss the impressive state apartments with the elegantly outfitted Drawing Room and the Chapel Royal.


Drawing Room, Dublin Castle. Photos shown: to the left, the last Lord Lieutenant (aka Viceroy) of Ireland, The Viscount FitzAlan of Derwent and, on the right, Michael Collins, leader of the newly formed Provincial Government (1921).

Next up, I take a leisure stroll through the surrounding neighborhood. The sun’s out and the citizens and tourists alike are out and about. I perch on a stool on the terrace of a neighborhood café for light refreshments as I missed breakfast, then continue on to my next destination, St. Patrick’s Cathedral. Entering the grounds through the rear you come upon St Patrick’s Park as the cathedral itself looms in impressive might before you. The park, or at least the grounds, hold a significant level of importance as it is believed that St. Patrick himself baptized the first Irish Christians in a well on this site with water from the River Poddle which still flows underground today. Spend time here and check out the cathedral which is an architectural splendor. Keeping with the cathedral theme, I then make my over to Christ Church, another one of Dublin’s oldest cathedrals a mere short walk away. It’s another impressive work of architecture and is ornately outfitted.


Christ Church Cathedral

Night falls and my stomach’s beginning to rumble. It’s time for some nourishment. But first, a quick pit stop back at the hotel to freshen up, then it’s back out on the town. For dinner, the spot is Catch-22 on South Anne St. The main feature on the menu is fish with a variety of other tasty accompaniments. To start I opted for the Fish Cakes w/ spicy mayo while I settled on the Fish Pie for my main course. I found both to be quite palatable if just a tad under seasoned. The quality was quite good however and I thought fairly priced.

My last night in Dublin saw me capping off things at The Front Lounge on Parliament St. It’s a fun spot that’s part restaurant part bar/lounge. It was a good  way to signoff, enjoying the late evening serenity of its atmosphere as tomorrow I bid adieu to this most lovely of cities.

Handy stylish backpack. Great for compact travel.

Megalopolises of the World: Spotlight on Mexico City

9 May

Benito Juarez

There are few places in the Americas that rival the deep cultural richness and history of Mexico. In fact, some may argue that it’s one of  the most important in terms of an intricately woven education in cultural Anthropology. It is thus, against such a backdrop, that a city, one of the largest and most densely populated the world over thrives day in day out. That megalopolis is Mexico City.

 Before the Conquistadors set foot on what the Spaniards would later christen the center of its new capital, ancient civilizations across chiefdoms called it home. Through the following centuries and a tumultuous history set against the backdrop of a thriving regal capital, a megalopolis would be birthed. Religion, being a focal point for Catholic Spain would take center stage, giving rise to some of the most impressive feats in the world of architecture (see the Metropolitan Cathedral in Zocalo and Basilica of Our Lady of Guadalupe in Tepeyac, in the north of the city) as well revolutions that would give rise to some of the most brilliant minds of our time.

Mexico City has a reputation; indeed perhaps several. For some of its neighbors to the north, it’s likely not a place that conjures up desirable feelings. Its tortured past coupled with a fair dose of media sensationalism has largely shaped these less than desirable feelings. Put it this way, it’s not a place a lot of people have on their list of having been-tos as opposed to more popular tourist beach town draws on the Yucatán or on the Pacific. This mentality is rapidly changing, however, as Mexico City continues to charm the hearts of its visitors and word of mouth testimonials proliferate the traveling masses.It is indeed a majestic city; a capital that rivals some of the best in the world and it’s a place that begs to be explored.

Most international flight arrivals here touch down at Mexico City’s Benito Juarez International airport (named after the popular historic figurehead; the very first indigenous President of Mexico who hailed from Oaxaca), T1. As of this writing, Aeromexico and Delta flights arrive at terminal 2 (T2). The journey into the heart of town is fairly straightforward though you’ll need to battle it out with the multiple taxi vendors vying for your business once you’re in the Arrivals Hall. The fare typically ranges widely from 200-400 pesos. Making  the fare purchase with the cab operator before proceeding to the taxi stand to board your ride into town is necessary. To note: Uber is in operation in Mexico City as well and makes for a relatively inexpensive ride into and around town.

Diego RiveraThis city is huge and thus there are many facets to its characteristics. The various neighborhoods that make up the central area also take on its own distinctive flare. There’s Reforma, which has long been the epitome of the planned city with it’s big, wide boulevards (see Paseo de La Reforma), luxury hotels, and ample retail therapy; then there are the neighborhoods of Roma (Norte y Sud — North and South, a favorite) and, also, the ultralux barrio of Polanco, a neighborhood that could almost be plucked out of chic Los Angeles, to name but a few. One our first visit, we settled on no frills accommodation at the Four Points by Sheraton in Roma Norte. It is a perfectly situated hotel in the middle of this very charming neighborhood–with easy access to many restaurants, nightlife and other points of interest. AirBnB accommodations (a choice we made on a return trip) are plentiful as well.

Getting around town is fairly easy and straightforward. We did a lot of exploring on foot which was just fine but taxis can be hailed or, for the more adventurous (and thrifty) the subway is a mostly decent alternative. A one way trip–as of this writing–is a mere 5 pesos (roughly 40 cents). It’s a dependable network, for the most part, and is well patrolled by police officers, so one does have a feeling of safety as a straphanger.  Still, as usual, exercising caution is highly advisable at all times in these sorts of situations.

Metropolitan CathedralMexico City is an explorer’s delight. Being a place that’s steeped in rich history, the city itself is a museum of sorts (and I would argue a place that’s rightfully earned it’s spot as a potential World Heritage Site). Fortunately, varied collections of artifacts, and other prominent works are on display at the numerous museums that dote the area, like the National Museum of Anthropology.  Other historical points of interest like the Metropolitan Cathedral, the National Palace featuring famous frescoes by native Diego Rivera, Chapultepec Castle on Chapultepec Hill, and the architectural delight, Palacio de Bellas Artes where you can catch performances ought not to be missed.

Further afield, the charming town of Coyoacan where prolific artists and activists Frida Khalo and Diego Rivera once lived is a great place to explore. Don’t miss La Casa Azul (the blue house) their immaculately preserved home (and now a museum), the town square with its leafy central garden (Jardin Centenario) and fountain, featuring the drinking Coyotes (origin of the town’s name), and historic, Parish of San Juan Bautista, one of the oldest parish churches in Mexico City.  It is also a place to sit a while and grab a bite.

Other possible day trips from Mexico City include the charming town of Puebla (roughly 2 hrs outside the city) where you can sample all manner of Mole and other delicacies while taking in the sights of city like Puebla Cathedral. 

It’s a multifaceted, culturally rich city that offers visitors a truly remarkable experience. It remains endlessly fascinating to me and I always look forward to visiting again. I highly recommend it. 

La Isla Del Encanto: Spotlight on San Juan

6 Aug

View from Castillo San Felipe del Morro or 'El Morro'

View from Castillo San Felipe del Morro or ‘El Morro’

La Isla Del Encanto, translated, The Island of Charm is a popular slogan associated with Puerto Rico. In fact, you’ll notice license plates on cars bearing this same motto. And for good reason as I would humbly agree that such proclamation is quite fair. One need only spend time in this beautiful jewel in the Caribbean to get it; it’s that palpable.

Puerto Rico, which can be translated as Rich Port can’t help it’s inherent uniqueness. It’s a blessing, I think, because this adds to its ever present charm. On the one hand an (unincorporated) United States territory, meaning no addnl. documentation (as in a passport) is required for travel and, on the other hand, an exotic oasis in the middle of the Caribbean where Spanish is the primary tongue though English is widely spoken as well, in urban areas, and is recognized as an official language.

San Juan, officially known as Municipio de la Ciudad Capital San Juan Bautista is the capital of the territory, its commercial hub and, indeed, the most populous city on the island.
Arrival here is at San Juan Luis Muñoz Marín International Airport (SJU). Several airlines operate non-stop flights from the East Coast mainland to SJU. Taxi vans are conveniently situated right outside the terminal to whisk you away into town at around $20 for most centrally located hotels (as of this writing).

Dinner at Yerba Buena

Dinner at Yerba Buena

In San Juan, Condado, right in the heart of town, maintains the pulse of the city. Many hotels and points of recreation can be found here. It also simmers with nightlife and a variety of eateries rim, or are just off the main thoroughfare, Ashford Avenue.
For mouthwatering local fare with a Cuban twist, try Yerba Buena right on Ashford or, if you’re seeking a bit of variety, Ali Baba, which dishes up tasty Turkish fare is also a good bet. Kasalta, further afield on Ave. Mc. Leary offers patrons an authentic experience with local pastries and mouthwatering delicacies on offer. Even President Obama popped by on one of his visits to the area.


Checking In: As far as a place to lay your head down at night, in Condado, La Concha is likely one of the more popular hotels on the Ashford strip. Newer, more upscale additions like the Condado Vanderbilt, however, are beginning to pop up along the strip as well. Alternatively, for something a little less pricy, and still very close to the beach, try Best Western Plus Condado Palm Inn

Old San Juan

Old San Juan

Journey Back In Time: if Condado is represents the city’s arteries, Old San Juan, is the the very heart of it. This part of town is beyond charming with it’s well preserved Spanish colonial architecture, easily transporting the visitor back to a time and place when some of the city’s highly connected populace took up residency here. Opt to stay here instead by snagging one of the numerous apartment/room rentals easily bookable via AirBnB. Quite a few decent choices are present in the area. While there, wonder the delightful neighborhood, indulging in scrumptious delicacies such as Mallorcas, an adapted local pastry, presented with your choice of filling – savory or sweet – at the kiosks in the plazas in the center of town. Or, make your way to Caficultura where artisans such as Edgardo Texidor Rosa whip up stimulating caffeinated beverages which you can enjoy with your pastry. It’s a full service restaurant as, as such, additional menu choices are on offer.


In addition, a monument not to be missed while wondering about town is the old Citadel and fort of El Morro. It’s a remarkable fortress that offers the explorer a glimpse into the island’s history and spectacular views of the ocean.

El Yunque - Waterfall

El Yunque – Waterfall

Further afield: explore a bit of nature by heading to the national forest of El Junque. Wear comfortable walking shoes and be prepared to hike a relatively short distance to the waterfall which unsurprisingly is a popular draw. As you make your way back into town after your adventure, stop by the one of the several roadside shacks/cafés for delicious local refreshments.

If time permits, consider pairing Culebra, a smaller neighboring island with your itinerary. It is easily accessible, via quick puddle jumper flights, and can make for something as short as a day journey. Alternatively you can also access the island via ferry but this takes a bit more planning and discipline. Ferries depart from the town of Fajardo, approximately 37 miles outside San Juan. Please consult the daily schedule ahead of time for the latest travel information.

A truly enchanting experience. Go check it out, you should be thoroughly charmed.

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72 Hours In Oslo

24 Jul

Oslo Fjord

Oslo Fjord

Perhaps it’s not the first city that pops to mind when contemplating the next vacation spot. Even within Scandinavia, I’d suppose its neighbors to the south and east likely elicit more interest for one reason or another. I myself had previously checked off those aforementioned references (see my entry on Stockholm) prior to making my way to Oslo. Well, I recently spent several glorious days in this capital city and thoroughly enjoyed myself. Here are some highlights.

Getting there: Arrival is at Oslo’s main airport, OSL. Flying direct from North America out of EWR, on the regions’s flagship carrier SAS, is possible or seamless connections via European hubs, London via British Airways or Amsterdam via KLM and their respective code share partners American and Delta, respectively, are possible as well.
After clearing customs and Immigration in OSL, getting into town is fairly easy and straightforward. Your best bet is the Airport Express train which deposits you right at Oslo Central Station. The cost is roughly 30 USD (as of this writing).

Clarion Hotel

Clarion Hotel

Getting settled: Check in to your hotel at Clarion Collection Hotel Folketeateret. This hotel is right in the middle of town and very easily accessible from Oslo Central Station, an easy 5-10 minute walk. This particular Clarion (be mindful there are several locations in the city) is also a stone’s throw from lots of dinning, shopping, nightlife, and other points of interest. See my review. Alternatively, if something more in the luxury category is desirable, you may consider the top hotel in town (TripAdvisor) uber-trendy, The Thief, just off popular Akers Brygee and flanked by the beautifully designed Astrup Fearnley Museum of Modern Art.

Day 1: Descend from your room to the breakfast hall at the Clarion for a truly spectacular spread of mouthwatering delights. The buffet features a wide range of continental selections plus much more. It’s quite an impressive offering and comes complimentary with your reservation.

Breakfast at Clarion

Breakfast at Clarion

After breakfast, the first thing I would recommend doing is securing an Oslo Pass. It offers excellent value, giving you free access to lots of sights and public transportation, plus discounts at some of the area restaurants.
Oslo Pass in hand, head out to the main pier at Rådhusplassen (Town Hall Square) which is within easy walking distance from the hotel. As you make your way out, note popular thoroughfare Karl Johannes Gate just blocks away from the square. Hop on the Fjord Sightseeing Cruise (Discount with Oslo Pass) at the embarking station right there at Pier 3 where most departures commence.The scenic trip, depending on your route of choice, covers a wide range of the city’s monuments and Fjords. I recommend the Classic Cruise (two hour duration) covering Akershus Fortress, Opera House and several Fjords with charming summer houses.
Beverage break at Lekter'n

Beverage break at Lekter’n

Once you’re back on land, you may want to break for a beverage and snack or some lunch. Lekter’n right on Aker Brygee is a decent spot to grab drinks and take in the picturesque surroundings or, for more meal options, most of the restaurants riming the Aker Brygee offer a lunch menu. Louise Restaurant and Bar is a solid choice. Once you’re properly nourished, proceed south to the beautifully Renzo Piano designed Astrup Fearnley Museum of Mordern Art (Free admission with Oslo Pass). It’s a remarkable piece of architectural genius that brilliantly adds to the picturesque landscape. Some of the museum’s collections include works by Jens Johannssen, American, Jeff Koons and British Pop art painter, David Hockney.
Astrup  Fearnley Museum

Astrup Fearnley Museum

Perhaps you’ve had enough for the day but if you’re still in form and ready for another must-see in the area, I suggest heading to nearby Akershus Castle and Fortress (Free access to the castle with your Oslo Pass). This historically significant complex dating back to the 1300s but made popular during the reign of Danish-Norwegian monarch, Christian IV (1588-1648) transports the explorer back to a time when the courts of the aforementioned monarchy held residence here. Prior to your exploration, I recommend securing one of the pre-recorded audio guides from the staff at the castle shop as you make your way in. It’s worth it and does not cost extra. As you proceed through, take note of the lower level crypt, The Royal Mausoleum, where past monarchs are interred, The Castle Church and The Hall of Christian IV.
Akershus Castle

Akershus Castle

You’re likely just about spent for the day as fatigue’s probably set in at this point. Head back to your hotel and grab a quick nap or, power through by ascending to the rooftop terrace at the Clarion for pre-dinner cocktails. Alternatively, make your way out to Etoile at the Grand Hotel where you can enjoy your beverage on their terrace with excellent views of Karl Johannes Gate. From there make your way to Café Christiania for dinner. It is a solid bet and just across the square. Afterward, cap off the evening at one of the many bars/pubs in the area.
Cafe Christiania

Cafe Christiania

Day 2: You’ve had a healthy helping of breakfast at the terrific buffet at the Clarion and you’re now ready to head off on the day’s adventures. Make your way to the Nobel Peace Center right at the corner of Rådhusplassen (Town Hall Square). Free admission with your Oslo Pass. The museum’s quite fascinating and well worth exploring. Included (with admission) are English language tours conducted at noon and 3PM but do check their website or call ahead for the latest information. The main level typically features temporary exhibits (for instance, Be Democracy, about the impact of Social Media on democracy through November 23, 2014), while the upper level features more permanent ones like the The Nobel Field, commonly referred to as the heart of The Nobel Peace Center. This hall houses the current and past recipients of the award (known as laureates). Don’t miss the establishment’s most popular Laureate, Martin Luther King Jr. who celebrates his 50th anniversary this year.

2009 Laureate, President Obama

2009 Laureate, President Obama

When you’re through, head further afield to The National Gallery which displays works by native, Edvard Munch and others by Norwegian and mostly European artists. Don’t miss Munch’s famous work, The Scream, on display here.
Next up, perhaps after a break, pick your way back through to Karl Johannes Gate and make the trek all the way to the top of the street. Here you’ll arrive at the Royal Palace and its surrounding grounds. Spend some time exploring the vicinity and if interested pick up a ticket ahead of time (at the nearby 7-Eleven) to gain entry into the palace during one of their scheduled guided tours. Please check ahead of time for the latest schedule.
Dinner at Fru K @The Thief

Dinner at Fru K @The Thief

As dusk nears head back to your hotel to freshen up and then plan on cocktails at uber-hip The Thief, at their rooftop bar. If you happen to be popping by over the weekend, don’t miss their Rooftop Sessions featuring the groovy sounds of DJ Dan Bravo and others, live. Libations sorted and you’re ready to eat, descend the elevators to Fru K, the onsite restaurant, for scrumptious fare. The restaurant’s got a chic ambiance but is decidedly relaxed, plus that staff’s quite friendly. Cap off the evening there or if you’ve got plenty of stamina to spare, head back towards your hotel and party the night away at popular trendy spot, Stratos, on the 12th floor of the Folketeateret building (same complex as the Clarion). Gay and Lesbian travelers: It’s not an overly simmering nightlife locale though popular longstanding establishments, London Pub and So (Lesbian) are decent spots for a pleasurable night out.

Vigeland Park

Vigeland Park

Day 3: It’s a day to soak up the sun in the park. Hopefully you’re traveling in the summer when the temperatures can be quite pleasant. Head to Vigeland Park (Tram 11 or 19 to Majorstuen or Tram 12 to Vigelandsparken). This is expansive ground featuring over 200 sculptures by Gustav Vigeland (1869 – 1943). Also check out the nearby museum (Free admission with your Oslo Pass) once you’ve had your fill of the park.
Afterward, break for lunch at popular Jacob Aall Brasserie and Bar. The Majorstuen location sits just at the top of the street Bogstadsveien close to the Majorstuen metro/tram stop and a very short walk from the park. Once lunch is sorted, get back on the tram, or if you’re feeling particularly athletic, walk back to Rådhusplassen. Hop on the ferry (91) to Viking Ship Museum. Both transfer and admission to museum is free with your Oslo Pass. The museum houses truly remarkable pieces of Norwegian history, salvaged Viking ship wreckages: The Oseberg , Gokstad and Tune, dating over a thousand years old.
You’re likely through sightseeing for the day. Head back to the hotel, rest up, and then head out to Oslo’s bohemian or likely dubbed by some, hipster, neighborhood, Grunerlokka. For an alternative to traditional Norwegian/Scandinavian fare, grab a seat at neighborhood hotspot, Delicatessen which serves up tasty cocktails and Spanish tapas with tons of charm and personality. It’s a lovely spot to end the evening.

All told, a remarkable experience and city. I thoroughly enjoyed my time there and I cannot wait to return.

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